The museum is a reminder that, for all the modernity of hotel infinity pools, the past is rarely invisible in a country that revels in heat haze on the highway, and dust in the air. Certainly, yesteryear feels closer as I go 40 miles (64km) east. The Red Sea recedes, Aqaba fades, and Wadi Rum opens its pink and orange arms.

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Unfortunately, Qasr Tuba is several miles from the nearest road, and really requires a rough terrain vehicle and a guide. A similar site south of Amman at Qasr al Mushatta, was also never completed after the death of Wallid II, but is quite impressive nonetheless. Nearby Qasr al Qastal was a palace complex under the Umayyads.

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